extreme budgeting

29 Nov 2011 2 Comments

by Aeri Rose in Budgets, Eating, Uncategorized

Well tonight is my last night in Istanbul for a while.  In the morning I head off to Paris to visit some friends (and hopefully Ms. Mona Lisa as well).  What have I done these last few days since returning from Cappadocia? EXTREME BUDGET TRAVEL!!! (Insert tacky camera effect here)

When I returned to Istanbul I made a decision.  While the city is very nice, I had reached that point of moving on, you know that point I mentioned before, when you just know its time for a new adventure.  So, I considered my itinerary, and knew that the five days I had booked in Istanbul at the end of my adventure would be entirely too many days spent here.  So, what did  I do? Booked a trip to Athens, Greece!! Wouldn’t you?  $210 later and I had my side trip arranged and plans to hit the #20 mark on my list of visited countries.

Having made that decision though, I was really feeling a tightening of my budget.  Reevaluating the remaining funds and days I realized that I’ll need to average under $50 a day to stay in budget, and this with my week in Paris, on the dollar devouring Euro, fast approaching.

So, for the last few days I’ve been extremely thrifty. But thats not to say I’ve been a snail hiding in the shell of my room.  This is what I did do:

On Nov. 25th I rolled back into town after riding the night bus from Goreme.  I napped, and woke up ravenous, so I found some quick food (16TL).  Well satiated I went for a wander through the Grand Bazaar and finished my shopping.  120 TL later and I had the fabric I had been looking for.  I’ve fallen in love with the “big pillow, low table” concept they use here, and really wanted some of the beautiful pillow cases.  They were just out of my budget though so I’ve consoled myself with the promise to make some of my own out of the fabric I’ve gotten.   On my way home I stopped at the market and picked up some groceries for the next few days.  On my uber-budget, this eating out had to stop.

On the 26th I managed to pull the day off for under 25 TL.  I ate breakfast at home, a banana-yogurt-honey affair, and then spent the day on the Princes’ Islands.  For 14 TL I could travel RT to the islands, and that included the metro from my door to the docks.  The islands were a bit of a disappointment, but the hour long ferry ride to and fro was enjoyable alone.  Especially the return trip, when we passed a pod of dolphins.

On the 27th I spent the day at the Spice Market and surrounding area.  I enjoyed wandering through the stalls and admiring the piles of saffron, white pepper, cinnamon- the list goes on.  I passed a fresh coffee shop and the scent hit me like a sack of potatoes.  I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to get such fresh Turkish coffee.  Luckily they sold many weights of coffee and I walked away with 107 grams for only 3 TL.  A taste, without breaking the budget.  Exiting the Market, I realized I was near one of the bridges, the one with the restaurants and shops beneath it.  I went to take a peak and was struck by another wonderful scent- this time it was the unmistakable scent of fried fish.  I noticed a large crowd of excited people surrounding some silly restaurants whose kitchens seemed to be on boats out back.  I realized that these were no ordinary kebab booths, they were serving fish fries!  I was intrigued, and for 5 TL a sandwich, I was hooked.  I passed the teller my money and with the timing of a ballet, he reached back to the swaying boat and took a sandwich from the chef.  Fresh bread, fried fish, and a lettuce/onion salad were stuffed into a paper wrap and handed off to me.  Entrepreneurial kids circled the patrons like seagulls; selling tissues, wet wipes, and sodas.  The sandwich was a delicious surprise find and totally worth every Lira.  On my way home, I stopped in the same market from a few days before and picked up more groceries for my remaining meals. Total spent for the day: 24 TL.

On the 28th, I spent 9 TL.  Yup, nine.  Thats like $4.90.  In the morning I went for a walk, saying my good byes to the city.  I  spent some time in a coffee shop, doing some writing and enjoying a latte and a snack (the 9 TL).  In the evening I cooked some of my groceries for my landlord, Erdi, and his friend.  I supplied an epic veggie dish stuffed with onions, tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant, and peppers; and he supplied some fried fish of his own (much better than the fish sandwich!) and some bread.  It is nice to have a family dinner at home sometimes, with whomever your family may be at the time.

Today, my last real day, was the 29th, and I admit I may have splurged a bit above my EXTREME BUDGET requirements.  But the day was so fabulous that I don’t really care!  I started out the morning with a walk in the park, it was so warm I barely needed my jacket.  After lunch, taken at home, I met up with Maree and we went to a Turkish Bath.  We went to a local one, recommended by Erdi, which had reasonable prices.  Just the bath was 30 TL, you could add a  body scrub (5 TL), soap massage (5 TL), or oil massage (30 TL).  I went for the works. What the hell right? Gotta have the full experience!

It was well worth the 70 TL, let me tell you.  So you go in, and its this stone room with a big warm stone platform in the center.  You rinse yourself off and lie on the platform, getting warm and relaxed.  The attendant comes in and scrubs you down with this tough exfoliating towel, then sends you back to the platform to relax.  When he’s done everyone who’s waiting, its time for the bubble massage.  This massage was really tough and hard. Deep tissue stuff. A strange juxtaposition with the slippery light bubbles floating around you.  You rinse off and back to the heating platform you go.  I was the only one who requested the oil massage so after the other bubble massages were given I was up again.

Now, I know that massages are different everywhere, and I’m up for anything.  I’ll do anything once after all. But when this massage started I was a little apprehensive.  I asked the attendant to go a little more gently this time, I don’t like really tough massages, and he says in his broken English “It ok.  Bubble massage hard, oil massage soft.” Ok. So I lay down, on the heated platform, in front of the other bathers, and he squirts me down with oil. I mean squirts me down.  Like the scene in Van Wilder when the Indian friend tries to seduce his sexy blond girlfriend and ends up catching the room on fire because he uses an entire bottle of oil on her back. Yeah, like that.  And he proceeds to give me the most soft, sensual, massage I’ve ever had.  It was amazing.  Here’s why it was amazing:

Because usually when you get a massage like that, its being given to you by your lover, and you start out thinking aw he’s so great, what a nice guy.  Then right around the time you’re a total puddle of goo, totally relaxed and happy, you realize that your lover isn’t really that nice and selfless of a guy.  He’s rubbing you down because he either a) wants you to give him a massage next, or b) is horny and thinks this is a total turn on.  Which it might have been, at the start,  but by now you’re so totally relaxed and comfortable that all you want to do is enjoy the warmth and maybe doze off.  Which is EXACTLY what you GET to do at the end of this massage given by a strange attendant, in front of all these other people, in a stone room!  Awesome!!

So anyway, after my warm and relaxed nap I gave myself another scrub to wash off all that oil, and then Maree and I headed out.  You can stay as long as you want at these things, but after two hours of luxurious lounging, we were getting hungry!  We headed back to her hostel to collect some more friends, and then we all wandered over to this new restaurant district that Erdi had recommended to me.  If you’re curious, it can be found under the aqueduct near Aksaray neighborhood.  They were famous for this fancy mound of rice and their lamb dishes.  Which was exactly what we ordered.  And it was exactly deliciously amazing.  He was right again.  The rice, flavored with pepper and chicken, and filled with bits of chicken, was wrapped in a sort of pastry and looked kind of like a sandcastle when served.  It was called “Perde Pilav” and I highly recommend it should you come to Turkey.  Especially since one can serve four (as a side) and only cost 10 TL.

So that’s how my EXTREME BUDGETING week went.  I walked a lot, made frequent use of the available home kitchen, and did some strategic spending.

Tomorrow, on to Paris, and the hardest test yet for my bare bones budgeting.

Serefe!

~Aeri

 

 

the puppy who prayed

25 Nov 2011 2 Comments

by Aeri Rose in Stories

Today I’d like to tell you a story.  This story came to me while riding the 10 hour bus between Goreme and Istanbul.  It came to me because of something I had seen that afternoon.  You see, earlier that day I had been taking my leave of the beautiful Cappadocia region, by sitting on a high 360 degree overlook in town.  It was warm and sunny and I had laid out my jacket to sit cross-legged on.  Lost in my own thoughts, I heard footsteps behind me.  I was surprised to see  a large black dog coming down the path.  From past experience, I am somewhat wary of large dirty stray dogs; but this dog didn’t seem to want anything to do with me, and promptly flopped over in the dirt a few paces behind me.  Clearly, just like me, he wanted to enjoy the sun and the view.  I went back to my reflections.

Shortly before noon the call to prayer began to ring out across the town.  By now I had grown accustomed to the call. But then the dog began to howl!  He howled when the prayer rang out, stopped when it did, and began again when it did.  This continued for the full five minutes of the call.  I was astonished.  A dog who prayed?  What could his story be?

On the bus that evening, with plenty of time for reflection ahead of me, I again thought about the mutt.  This is the story I’ve given him:

Once upon a time there was a little black puppy born in a small mountain town.  There was nothing remarkable in this, stray dogs and cats are born in small mountain towns every day.  The puppy, too, did not think anything of it.  He was born in the spring time and for the first months of his life he enjoyed the warm weather, the generous tourists, and the comfort of sleeping curled up with his mother and brother.  As time progressed the season turned from warm to cold.  The tourists were fewer and less generous.  Then one night he returned to the tree his family liked to sleep under and his mother was not there.  The little black puppy was surprised and sad.  His brother stayed at the tree to wait for his mother to come back, but the little black puppy went to look for her.  That was the last time he saw his brother.

Now it was cold, and the little black puppy was all alone.  He  didn’t know what to do.  He tried to sleep curled around the familiar tree, but in the winter, without the shared warmth of his family, it was cold and unpleasant.  So the puppy tried to find a new home.  He wandered up and up and up in the mountains.  Eventually he found some caves.  They were not warm, but they sheltered the puppy from the wind, so he crawled inside and went to sleep.

When he woke up in the morning the puppy realized that the cave walls were all painted with people stuff. People with gold rings around their heads, and people with hands out stretched.  The puppy was confused, usually people shooed him away from their people stuff, but he didn’t see or smell any people in these caves.  Maybe the people didn’t use these caves anymore, he decided, and anyway it was nice and warm and he would stay here.  And this is how he passed the winter.  During the day he would look for food, or his mother, or his brother; and at night he would sleep in the cave- which was actually an ancient church cave.

The puppy supposed things were OK, after he was warm and safe, but he was very sad and lonely.  There were few animals in the hills, but no dogs, and no people.  There was only the cave, and the wind, and the scrubby dry winter trees, oh and  one other thing.  Sometimes there was a people song. A chanting, calling, that would ring out from everywhere and nowhere.  It would ring out across the mountains several times a day. No matter where the puppy was, even deep in his cave, he would hear the singing.  Though the puppy didn’t know it, this was the people’s call to prayer, coming from the mosque in town.

Something made the puppy want to sing with the chanting, maybe it was a feeling that his ancestors used to sing.  They used to sing together to celebrate their togetherness; and they used to sing alone to find others, or just to cry out at their loneliness. So every time the puppy heard the voices, he would sing with them.  Long mournful howls that lamented his loneliness and tried to find connection with the mysterious aerial voices.

All through the winter the puppy grew and sang. Eventually spring came again and he was no longer such a small puppy.  One day he crept out of his cave, and saw people on his hill.  The farmers had returned to till the earth and care for their plants. He was surprised to see them, but they did not care about seeing him so he left them alone.  They WERE surprised, though, when they heard the puppy praying with the call to prayer.  Because of this they thought the puppy was cute and funny and left him their lunch scraps.  When the people had left for the day, the puppy happily enjoyed the bits of bread they had left behind.

This continued as the days grew warmer and the plants grew.  Then one night the puppy saw some strange little animals in the people’s fields.  They were eating the plants in the field.  That is not good, thought the puppy.  He liked the people, and he liked seeing them each day.  If the plants died the puppy worried that maybe the people would stop coming to his hill.  So he ran into the fields and chased away all the critters.

In the morning, the people came to the fields and realized what the puppy had done.  They cheered him happily.  That day they decided it was time to leave a sentry in the field for the rest of the season. The sentry and the dog sat all night and watched the fields.  The sentry was so happy to have company with the puppy that he shared his whole dinner with him, even some cheese and meat.  The puppy was happy for the food, but he was even happier to sit with the man by his fire.

For the rest of the season the puppy would rest and watch the people work the fields during the day, and defend against critters with a sentry at night.  Eventually though, the air started to get cold and the puppy watched the farmers take in the harvest.  He knew that soon it would be very cold and he would be alone in is cave again.  The puppy was very sad about this, and his daily howls became more mournful.

Then, one day the farmer’s work was done.  There was nothing left to guard, and no sentry to leave.  The puppy sat at the top of his hill and watched the farmers trudge down the road.  He wished he could go with the people, but he didn’t know that people and dogs sometimes lived together.  One young farmer, the first sentry the puppy sat with, stopped and turned around to look at the puppy.  “Well, come on then.” he said and gestured with his hand that the puppy should follow.  “You’ve earned it.  Its too cold for you to stay up here alone.”

Could it be true? The person want the puppy to come with him! With a happy bark the fuzzy little puppy, now a big black dog, bounded after his people.  And from that day forward he stayed with them in their homes in the winter, and guarded their fields in the summer.  And every day, where ever he was, whatever he was doing, he could be heard to howl and sing along with the village call to prayers.

The End.

let’s be real

24 Nov 2011 Leave a Comment

by Aeri Rose in Advice

This post might be a little crude, or crass for the more delicate readers.  If you are offended by potty humor- I suggest you move right along to the next post.  If you’re a new traveler wanting the real low down on the travel experience, or a veteran traveler ready to laugh over the facts of life, than this post is for you.  Make your choice, we begin below.

This post is about some challenges of traveling. Mainly laundry days and foreign bathrooms.

The Laundry Battle

Without fail, the first thing you’ll run out of is socks, promptly followed by underwear.  At this moment you’ll be faced with a decision: whether or not to waste time, money, and energy on a full wash load.  Sure, you could probably track down a laundromat, fork over enough cash for a good meal, and try to collect enough dirty and semi-dirty clothes to fill out a full load.  Or, you can cozy up to the nearest sink, pull out some liquid soap (body soap and dish detergent both work great for a quick fix), and get scrubbing.  Ask any veteran backpacker and they’ll have some silly story of hanging socks and panties up to dry anywhere they can: out windows, over radiators, across bathtubs, or even (ocassionally) on an actual clothes line…invariably strung up in the town square or somewhere equally public.

I always try to sneak a mini-laundry day in between major washes.  But when that necessary laundry pit-stop arrives, be aware of timing and options.  A little preemptive research can be helpful.  Firs, determine if your lodging has a laundry service, or where the nearest laundromat is, and what the cost per load is.

Also find out if there is a dryer available or if it’s the clothes line for you. Its always nice to save energy and line dry your clothes, but sometimes that’s just not practical.  When, you might ask, is it impractical? 1. If you’re in a hurry and waiting an extra day for damp jeans to dry isn’t an option, and 2. If the air quality in your present city would negate the fresh washing if your clothes were to be left out to dry in it (yes, I’m talking some serious pollution here).

Laundry day can definitely kill your momentum, but it can also provide a nice chance to reset and take a break. But that’s enough on dirty linens, lets move on to potties!

Potties: more varieties than there are colors in the rainbow

There are porcelain ones, metal ones, plastic ones, wooden ones. Sitting ones, standing ones, squatting over holes ones, and holes in the ground. Flush handles, flush chains, and flush buttons. Sometimes there is toilet paper, toilet tissues, wet wipes, wet sponges, water buckets, or nothing at all. There are the countries that want you to flush the paper, and those that want you to throw it in a bin beside you. There are batthrooms that are free, ones that charge you ten cents, and ones that charge you a dollar. Some have a maid, some don’t. Some maids require tips, some don’t. Sometimes there are sinks to wash your hands, sometimes there aren’t.  There are air dryers, paper towels, cloth rolls, or nothing at all.  There is liquid soap, foam soap, bar soap, powder soap, no soap, and empty soap containers. There can be several potties in one room, potties divided by stalls, potties divided by walls, and potties in their own rooms. There are more options and combinations than countries to visit.

How do you know what kind of potty experience you’re in for?  Check one out and hope for the best.  But it is always a good idea to get in the habit of traveling with a pack of tissues.  Its better to have and not need, than to find yourself wanting.

Hostel potties can be a little closer to your sleeping arrangements than you could comfortably wish.  Have you ever farted in a cave?  The acoustics are…as good as you’d expect them to be.  Potties can be embarrassing. Sometimes, when considering your potty, you just have to laugh, relax, and remember- everyone poops. It’s just a matter of where.

 

This update brought to you by Aeri the Faerie, keeping (sh)it real.

Good Luck!!

a moment of equality

23 Nov 2011 Leave a Comment

by Aeri Rose in Drink

Last night was quite and unexpectedly epic evening.  After our morning pottery excursion, and afternoon hike, I had reservations to see a Whirling Dervish Ceremony.  At 50 TL it was a bit pricey, but I have always been interested in this human phenomena, so I decided it was worth it.  And I think I chose correctly.  The Dervishes went through an intricate ceremony of iterations of bowing and spinning, encompassed by bigger rotations around the stage. The rotations symbolize the connection amongst all beings, from the smallest atom to the largest planet.  Everything revolves, both in movement through space and cycles through time.  Though they moved quickly, the Dervishes seemed relaxed and meditative, a feeling that filled the energy of the room.  During the show the Dervishes, in their white flowing gowns, seemed to glow with some inner light…but then I realized that the dim cavern was actually lit by black lights.  The white gowns were glowing beneath the black light!! While the cavern may be several thousand years old, clearly the technical system was quite a bit newer. It was a nice touch all the same.

The rotating Dervishes seek a state of love and ecstasy.

Afterward some small sample of a red drink was offered.  I wasn’t able to find out what it was, but it couldn’t help but make me think: “Don’t drink the Kool-aid!” Despite the funny drink, I was impressed with the main principles of the Whirling Dervishes:

1. In generosity and helping others, be like a river.

2. In compassion and grace, be like the sun.

3. In concealing others faults, be like the night.

4. In anger and fury, be like the dead.

5. In modesty and humility, be like the earth.

6. In tolerance, be like the sea.

7. Either exist as you are, or be as you look.

After the ceremony, I peacefully returned to the hostel, where I met Maree. We had plans to visit a restaurant we had passed that afternoon which advertised live music.  The restaurant was charming, with more of the low tables and large pillows.  Here, I ordered the local Cappadocia wine, a dry red, and was very pleasantly surprised.  It was very mild but palpable.  Not extremely complex, but not at all tasting of vinegar.  I’ll certainly be taking a bottle or two home to share.

Though live music was advertised, it seemed not forthcoming.  A little sad, but enjoying the environment all the same, Maree and I stayed for a few drinks and snacks.  Eventually, we were the only remaining  guests, and the restaurant workers settled down across the room from us with a Saz and some hand drums and wooden spoons. They played several nice songs while we listened appreciatively.  Then the Saz player- Charlie- asked if we would like to join them! Though I have a little experience with hand drums, it can be intimidating to play songs you don’t know with people you’ve just met.  All the same, I happily took the offered Dumbek and settled on a pillow across from the Saz player.  Maree took a shaker. We played some songs  with them and after a few minutes of loosening up we even sounded somewhat good.  Certainly nothing to go on the road with, but also nothing to make a musician’s ears bleed.

I have to say, music is a wonderful thing.  It can bridge cultures in an instant.  It is a way to bond with friends and strangers and not a word needs to be uttered.  It inspires both unity and humanity; creativity, originality, and connection.  And it’s just plain fun!

I don’t know what travel tips to offer from this experience.  This was one of those lucky moments that can’t be planned for, trained for, or scheduled. They can only be hoped for.  The moments when you can bond with strangers, not as travelers or hosts, but as equals finding themselves in the same place at the same time and sharing a brief moment of simple happiness. I can only hope that you can find these moments too, when you’re traveling and even when you aren’t.

Much Love,

~Aeri

get off the beaten path

22 Nov 2011 Leave a Comment

by Aeri Rose in Advice, Budgets, Lodging, Transportation, Trips

The last few days have been stunning.  That’s why the message of this post is to “get off the beaten path.” It’s impossible, or rather impractical to plan out your entire trip before you even leave home.  You just can’t know all the great stuff to do in a place, even with all the internet research in the world! The best way to find the good stuff is to just ask around- ask the locals, ask the travelers, ask Everyone! And stay flexible.  If you like it somewhere, stay there for a few days- don’t rush it.  Tour around. You’ll feel it when it is time to move on.

So how has my latest “unplanned” trip gone? Smashingly, of course!  We left Istanbul on a bus for Çanakkale, a port city on Turkey’s west coast.  The next morning I went to the ancient city of Troy. You’ll need an imagination, to appreciate the expansive “city” which is just a collection of foundations and ancient rock walls now. But it was wonderful to be somewhere so ancient, and still being excavated currently.  I  touched a 5,000 year old wall!  I mean just think, the human race has only really been around for a little over 10,000 years; and that wall has been standing for fully HALF of it!  Far out! And bricks and mortar are still a popular method for building construction. Sometimes people are so slow to evolve. hehe.

Anyway, after Troy I spent some free time in Çanakkale, waiting for the bus to the Cappadocia region in the center of Turkey.  Çanakkale was really an unexpected gem.  They had a cute town square, warm weather, and beautiful restaurants and pubs along a waterfront (the Aegean Sea). 

Seaside veiw from my café seat

In no time we were on the bus to Kayseri, the big town on the edge of the Cappadocia region.  I have to say, bus travel (while totally necessary at least once!) can be entirely unpredictable.  Luckily, long distance buses in Turkey were fantastic. They were new, large coaches with plenty of heat.  This trip was not very crowded and Maree and I each had a row to ourselves with space to stretch out and sleep- which was really good considering the bus ride was 16 (yes, SIXTEEN!) hours long.  My longest ever ride yet. When going on a long trip like this, consider timing as well. We left in the evening so that we rode through the night.  This is good for several regions: for a budget traveler you can include a night’s lodging in the price of the ticket, and for the time conscious traveler you don’t waste daylight stuck inside.

Arriving in Kayseri in the morning, we were refreshed (well, excitedly energized  at least) and ready for an adventure. Our first mission: find a place to sleep for the night!  A few minutes work in an internet cafe and we found a hostel for 20 TL a night in a town called Göreme.  Works for us!

Now, I have to tell you.  We chose to add Cappadocia to our tour for one very important reason: the caves!  Called “fairy chimneys” by the locals, these strange landforms were made by volcanoes ages ago.  The local tribes moved in, and carved out elaborate cave homes in the cliffs and chimneys.  Many local people, while having moved away from the original caves, still build their houses backed up to caverns.  The hostel where we stayed was a cave hostel, and our room was a stone cavern.  The beds were even nooks carved into the living wall!

Totally Cool Right?! I'm that second nook on the right. :D

We could really settle into this town for a few days, with limitless hiking in the beautiful surroundings, and local crafts to experience. And we did just that.  Almost as soon as we could throw the bags into our rooms, we were out on a trail.  We explored up and up and found ourselves in a vineyard at the top of the plateau.  This region is also known for its wines, which I  will be sure to experience and report on- purely for the reader’s benefit of course.

The Fairy Chimneys of Göreme, Turkey


The next day, today, we started with a trip to Avanos, to visit a sixth generation pottery shop.  And boy-o was this some pottery shop! The owner showed us the facilities, explaining the process.  They collected mud from either the riverbank (for red clay) or the hills (for white clay).  They process the clay so it is ready for throwing.  The potters use either an antique foot spun wheel, or an electric wheel. Then we were shown the painting room, where each pot, plate, and bowl is hand painted by local artists.  The detail and craftsmanship was just stunning. One painter was working on something different from the other artists.  It was explained that he was doing some modern art pieces.  I was blown away by the thought that this family could maintain the work done by their family for generations, yet bring in modern influence to keep the art meaningful, present, and fresh.

Lastly, we were taken to the finished pieces showroom.  Every traveler should be prepared for this moment.  At least once on every trip you will encounter the thing that sucks you in.  This was my thing. You may think you have a perfectly planned budget, you may even be perfectly keeping to your perfectly planned budget. But then, without warning, you’ll find that thing that sucks you in.  Really, you should plan for this too in your budget. My thing sucked me in was a collection of 7 bowls and 2 cups.  Including shipping it totaled…well suffice it to say, I blew my budget for this day and for several days after.  But it was worth it.  When you find that thing that sucks you in, let it.  You only live once, and you’ll probably never be back to the place to “buy it next time.”

Just looking at those bowls makes me happy. Which is a good thing considering I won’t be able to afford to put much food in them for a while!

So, to recap, my two important travel tips for today are:

1. Get off the beaten path, and

2. Be prepared for the thing that sucks you in.

Whew! Good night!

~Aeri

“tea-sugary-dreams”

21 Nov 2011 1 Comment

by Aeri Rose in Advice, Transportation, Trips

For the last few days I’ve been settling back into the traveler’s routine. After my exciting first day, I decided to rein back in the adventures and do some sight-seeing. I started at the Topkai Palace, and like I anticipated, spent several hours wandering the rooms and courtyards. The mosaics inside and out were just stunning, and the views of the city were spectacular from that vantage point. Both the European side and the Asian side could be seen. After the Palace, I was in need of a rest and a snack. I got my snack in the form of a street cart. Many such carts can be found around the city, some selling steamed corn and some selling breads. More interested in the veggie, I tried a corn on the cob for 1 L. With tongs, the vendor adeptly flipped the corn into a waiting wrapper, salted it all around, and handed it off with a flourish. My Lira I dropped into the old barrel of corn water.

Munching happily I wandered some side streets and found some small art galleries. Modern art in Istanbul is quite stunning, incorporating old themes (like the Whirling Dhirvish) with new mediums (like photography and oil painting). My walk led me to the archaeological museum, with its extensive collection of statues and pillars. I was particularly interested in the toga wearing goddess statues, and snapped some great pictures for costume inspiration later.

After the museum I headed home to freshen up. That evening I was meeting Maree for drinks. Before that I needed to find myself some dinner. While kebab is good, I was ready for something a little more sophisticated. Taking the tram back to the historic district, I let my nose lead the way. Intrigued by a chef in the window, I wandered into a nondescript restaurant on the main road. Once again, my nose didn’t fail me. I ordered the cold mixed plate and the day’s soup- lentil. The lentil soup was unlike any I had ever had before. It had a strong brothy flavor and was served with a slice of lemon. Unsure of the lemon I tested one drop on a spoonful first. The combination of lemon and broth, with the thick heartiness of stewed lentils, was stunning. I happily squirted the rest of the lemon into the bowl, mixed, and enjoyed. The mixed plate was equally appetizing. Served with flat bread, the plate contained hummus, a thick taziki sauce, a spicy tomato spread, two egg plant dishes- one spicy and one sour- and something remotely similar to potato salad, but could never be given the name. Cucumber and tomato garnished the dish between spreads. In the center sat two dolmadas- spicy wrapped grape leaves. Anyone who has ever enjoyed greek dolmadas would be impressed with these Turkish ones, whose rice is a bit more spiced.

Lentil soup with lemon juice...whoda thunk?!

After enjoying my dinner (with tea of course) and paying the tab- 35 TL- I wandered over to Maree’s Hostel. She was staying at the Harmony Hostel, a cute cozy lodge in a great part of town. We had plans to go out for a drink, but instead picked up some beers from the mart across the street and enjoyed them in the hostel common room.

The room was adorable, and the most relaxing, and stereotypical, Turkish experience I’ve had yet. Big fat pillows covered the floor, surrounding low tables. A wood burning stove stood in the corner, which we promptly lighted for warmth. Maree and I discussed travel plans, and decided to go together on a coastal tour to Canakkale and Troy, and maybe over to Cappadocia Province. Though out the evening we were joined by another Australian girl, the Turkish hostel manager, a Syrian sculpture artist, and a Malaysian amateur antique buyer. This right here is the best part about hostels. Stomach the group bed-rooms, pinch your nose at semi clean bathrooms, and grumble when the food you’ve left in the fridge gets eaten. But at night, come home to a cozy common room and share some beers with people from around the world, and somehow its all worth it. Of course you start out talking about traveling, and finally you’re surrounded by your peers. You can tell your most bogus, absurd adventure stories and your listener can commiserate. If you’ve got a good crowd, as we did this night, the conversation will wander into more serious topics and you’ll be amazed at the things you’ll learn. This night I fell deep into conversation with the Syrian artist, discussing- of all things- women salesmen, love versus lust, and the subjectivity of emotions. Much later, coming back into our surroundings, we realized the beer was gone, and I wasn’t actually BOOKED to stay at this hostel. Taking my leave of the group, and agreeing to meet Maree for our trip, I again hopped in a taxi for the short ride home. All in all I ended my day just slightly over budget, but again every dollar was money well spent.

The next day, Friday, I wrapped up my Istanbul Tour. By the evening I found myself in Taksim square again, this time wandering the shops more leisurely. I also discovered that the path, closed to cars, filled with street musicians in the evening. I enjoyed each one for several minutes, buying CDs from some of the better bands. At 10 Lira a pop, I can afford to be a firm supporter of these arts. Home early, packed, and in bed shortly, I excitedly awaited our coastal tour in the morning.

That would be this morning. Maree, Sam (the other Australian gal from the night at Harmony Hostel), and I met at the metro stop and continued on the the bus station. The station was huge- a long strip of bus companies, each with their own ticket office. We chose Metro bus, recommended by the hostel manager. For 35 TL we could make it to Canakkale, a small island in the Aegean Sea. Maree had done her couch surfing research and we would be staying with a couple of young university students for the night. When we hopped off the ferry we wandered over to the tourism office for directions to the flat. We were told bus C3 would take us there, and it was only a block or two from the stop. C3 was easy enough to find, but the stops were less well marked. We rode the bus to the very end of the line, and had the whole bus trying to help us find the flat on the map. Luckily the driver let us stay on for the return loop and we hopped off at the right stop the second time around. 

Confused on the bus in Canakkale

When we arrived, we checked in with Tahir and Adam, our hosts for the night. We had passed a grocery store on our walk from the bus stop and after dropping our bags we wandered back to the store to hunt for dinner. With access to a clean kitchen, we went fresh, and picked up some veggies, cheese, bread, and yogurt. For 21 L we had enough food to feed the five of us. I’ll talk more specifically about the grocery store experience in a future post. It can be quite epic and deserves its own space!

After dinner, Adam’s friend Frantz came to round out our group. Though the boys spoke little English, and we spoke even less Turkish, we had a good evening. With pantomime, Google translate, and general good humor almost anyone can get along for an evening. We also took the time to learn some more important Turkish words. ‘Thank you’ is always the first phrase I learn in any new country. In turkish it sounds like “tea-sugary-dreams”, or “tea-sugary” for short. Yes, no, and help are petty universal with body language, but ‘thank you’ can be tough. Cheers is another good one to learn quickly too, especially when sharing a pint in a pub.

Why, you may ask, have I spent so much time describing this day? Because it is full of wonderful examples of more crucial travel tips.

  1. Learn the Metro System: Part of your mission in the first few days is to figure out how to navigate the city’s public transportation. It is often the quickest (yes even quicker than a cab if the city has traffic- as most cities do), and cheapest (again, certainly cheaper than a cab) way to move about town. Cabs are OK to hire at night, after the metro has closed, or if you’re uncomfortable walking to and from the metro stations; but often they are unavailable in the morning. Paying 2 L and hopping on the metro was the best way for us to get to the bus station this morning. Also, it provided a convenient meeting point for three ladies without cell phones.
  2. Travel by bus at least once: The bus is a great way to travel between cities in a country. The train is a good choice too. They both travel slowly and offer a great opportunity to view the passing countryside. This bus ride was no exception, and we spent several hours driving past fields and the winding along the coastline. We were even able to top off the trip with a surprise ferry ride.
  3. Learn a few key words in the local language: like I said before, ‘thank you’ is always the first phrase I learn. Other useful ones are please, yes, no, help, how much?, the first few numbers…oh and Cheers! Being able to say thank you in the local language is a fantastic way to be polite and really reinforce your gratitude.

All in all it was a great day. I got to see much of the countryside, rest my tired legs from days of intense walking, and meet some new friends in a warm and welcoming home. Oh, and I did it all for only 55 Turkish Lira/$30.55. Way under budget for the day!

Up next- Ancient Troy. Serefe!

~Aeri

top four first day travel tips

18 Nov 2011 1 Comment

by Aeri Rose in Advice, Trips

Wednesday was really my first real day in Istanbul. After traveling for 30 hours the two days before, and going to sleep early Tuesday, by Wednesday morning I was ready to explore and get acquainted with my new temporary home. In this post I’ll talk about my day, consider how well my budget will work out, and intersperse some helpful first-day tips throughout.

So, what did I do Wednesday? The first thing I did, is also my # 1 first-day tip. I wandered my neighborhood, orienting my flat in the neighborhood and the neighborhood in the city. I am staying in Fatih, a neighborhood on the European side of Istanbul, in the south, just west of the big tourist center Sultanahmet.

This is a good time to do my #2 first-day tip, if you hadn’t taken care of it at the airport. Get Cash! Often using your bank card and withdrawing cash from the ATM is a less expensive (ie less transaction fees than a currency exchange office) way to acquire foreign currency. The typical ATM charge is a $2-3 foreign ATM fee and a 3% foreign transaction fee. So for example, if you withdraw 100 Euro, you’ll pay $7.50- $3 for not using your own bank’s ATM, and $4.50 for the 3% transaction fee (3% of $150, or whatever the Dollar to Euro conversion rate is at the time). If you do A LOT of traveling, you may consider opening an account with HSBC, a global bank that doesn’t charge foreign ATM fees and reimburses any fees those foreign ATMs may impose. You may also consider opening a credit card without foreign transaction fees. Capital One has some good options, as does Chase Sapphire.

Anyway, after wandering past several Mosques and a park, I decided to enter the next one I saw. From the outside, the domes sit beautifully above sturdy walls, often with ornate windows, fencing, or tiles on the outside as well. Not sure of the proper manners, I timidly approached what looked like the tourist entrance. An older gentleman with a thick mustache encouraged me forward, explaining with gestures and broken english that I was to take my shoes off and leave them on the shelf, cover my hair with a scarf, and could leave a donation if I wished. A sign at the entrance warned visitors not to take pictures during prayer times and not to interrupt prayers for any reason, to just sit quietly in the back until they were finished.

Inside the mosque the floor was covered with thick red carpets and the inner domes were majestically painted with ornate floral patterns and Arabic writing. I snapped some photos and sat in awe, gazing upwards for long minutes trying to take it all in. Suddenly a wailing rang out throughout the city. I had heard the wailing the night before and my landlord explained- five times a day the practicing Muslims are called to prayer. The wailing, echoing throughout the whole city, was that call. Not believing my luck, I tucked myself into a back corner and watched my first Islamic noon prayers. It lasted about 20 minutes, and seemed to be a peaceful meditative moment for the congregation. It ended as soon as it began, and the men seemed to shake themselves awake, collected their shoes, and returned to their regularly scheduled day. I too collected myself and my shoes, dropped a Lira in the donation box, and went about my day.

At this point I was feeling pretty hungry. After a few false starts I realized that Turkish vendors, like small businesses in many foreign countries, don’t carry a lot of change and don’t like to break big bills. Stuck with only 50 Lira notes from the ATM, I eventually found a coffee shop chain that would make change. I always try to eat authentic and local when I travel, but sometimes it can’t be helped. At least it was a Turkish chain. 8.45 TL later and I was sitting down with a savory pastry and a sweet Turkish coffee.

After my snack and my break, I continued on my walk. I was heading in the direction of Sultanahmet, home of the Sultanahmet Camii (Blue Mosque), the Hagia Sofia, and the Topkapi Sarayi (Topkapi Palace). I didn’t quite make it though, at least not yet, since I happened past an archway with the words “Kapalicarsi, Grand Bazaar, Gate 7” etched into the stone. The Grand Bazaar!! Over 4,000 vendors of new and old, import and export goods all ready to haggle over price. You can find some great stuff here, but you can get ripped off quickly too, so be wary and have fun.

I decided to take a walk through, but not buy much yet. After all it was only my first day! I did say, if I found an interesting blanket, I would buy that. My room was a bit cold last night, I could use the blanket on the trip, and I’d have a beautiful and useful souvenir for later. After a bit of wandering I did find a beautiful blanket stall. The vendor was very friendly and helpful and we spent a lot of time discussing the origins of the blankets and their patterns. He ordered tea and laid out dozens on the floor in front of us. I could tell these blankets were very nice, high quality, and I am sure way out of my budget! Not wanting to ruin the experience or cut the great lesson short I held my tongue. Finally I had to ask, the blanket I chose seemed like a large pashmina. Thin, woven cashmere of indigo and autumn colors. The asking price: 280 TL. Almost $150? NO WAY! After a good haggling session and some more talk I ended up walking away with the blanket, a leather poof cover, and dinner plans…for 100 TL. Still a high price, but at least within the day’s budget.

By the time I left the Bazaar it was already 3:30 in the afternoon. Tired of walking, and still interested in checking out Sultanahmet, I jumped on the nearest metro stop. Five minutes and 2 TL later and I had finally arrived. I wandered the area, snapping pictures. I picked up some postcards and an English guide book for 5 TL (haggled down from 26 TL. They jack up their prices an absurd amount!).

The palace, which I was extremely interested in seeing, closed in an hour so I decided to come back the next day and go in when I had more time to explore. The Hagia Sofia had an entrance fee, and my personal principles make me disinclined to pay an entrance fee for a church. So instead I walked across the street to enter the Blue Mosque (for free). It too was extremely ornate and beautiful with patterns within patterns covering the entire interior.

Since the sky was getting dusky by the time I left the Mosque, I decided to head home. My orientation walk had turned into a successful first day of touring, and I still had those dinner plans to fulfill! On the walk home I stopped at a small market I made note of at the beginning of my walk. This is my #3 first-day tip: Find the local grocery store or market near your house. Pick up jugs of water, fruit, and healthy snacks to leave in your room. Other stuff you can make note of on your orientation walk include the laundromat, an internet cafe, hospital, police station, and post office.

At home I had time for a little rest before dinner, so I took time to check over my budget. Remember I have $66.86/120.6 TL per day.

November 16 expenses:

  • 1 TL Mosque Donation
  • 8.45 TL Snack
  • 100 TL Blanket and poof
  • 2 TL Metro ride
  • 5 TL Postcards and guide book
  • 3 TL Water and sesame sticks

Before dinner, I had spent 119.45 TL. Just under budget with only a little more than 1 TL to spend on dinner! Uh oh!

Luckily my new friend was also a gentleman, and paid for me that evening. He met me at the metro stop near my flat, and we took a taxi to Taxim Square, the big modern shopping area. We went to an Otanic restaurant where we ordered Gozleme- a big flat Turkish pancake stuffed with spiced mashed potatoes. After dinner we continued our walk, and stopped at a coffee shop. The menu had the basics: tea, coffee, seltzer water; but it also had an item called Sahlep. Since it was the only thing I didn’t recognize, this is what I ordered. It was a creamy milky vanilla drink with cinnamon on top. It was decadently rich and delicious. My friend couldn’t quite explain exactly what it was, but I wasn’t much concerned. It was tasty and warm!

After coffee we stopped in a few bars to listen to local ethnic music. Some typical instruments in Turkey are the Saz and the cümbüş (both stringed instruments); a variety of flutes made from bone, metal, and wood; and hand drums like the Darbuka.  As fascinating as my evening had been, by midnight the day had caught up with me. Pleading exhaustion, I excused myself from my new friend and took a taxi home. Which brings me to my #4 first day tip. Keep a printout with your address and cross streets in your bag, so you can show it to cabbies. That way in case you get terribly lost and can’t explain yourself, you can at least show them the paper and be taken safely back to home base. Ten lira later and I was tucked into my room, exhausted but content, and ready to snuggle underneath my new blanket.

So to review: Here are my top four first day tips:

  1. Go on a walk and orient yourself
  2. Get cash
  3. Find a grocery store and stock up on water and snacks
  4. Carry a card with your address and cross streets

şerefe! (My newest vocabulary word, meaning “Cheers!” in Turkish)

~Aeri

maree from australia

15 Nov 2011 1 Comment

by Aeri Rose in Budgets, Eating, Lodging, Transportation, Trips, Uncategorized

Well it is now 3:00 am in Istanbul, Turkey, and despite the exhausting trip getting here, jet lag has gotten the best of me.  Since I seem to be reviewing the day’s events in my head anyway, I deemed this as good a time as any to blog about my day.

So, how was the trip getting here? Long, but uneventful.  After an on time departure from Dulles Airport in D.C., we arrived in Munich at 8:00 am their time.  I had time for a walk to stretch my legs, and a nap- stretched across several chairs- before the final flight to Istanbul.  Two an a half hours, and a surprisingly delicious in-flight meal later and I had arrived. We landed, I passed through customs after purchasing a $20 visa, collected my bag, and made my way to the tourist office.  There I got my hands on a map and instructions for the metro system.

At the ticket machines I made my first friend.  A “Maree from Australia” who had also just arrived, though she’s spent the last nine months backpacking around Europe.  These spunky Australian girls are a travel staple.  No matter where you go, you’ll find these spirited girls, laden down with packs as big as they are, and bursting with knowledge, stories, and a sense of adventure.  Maree lent me 2 Turkish Lira after the machine repeatedly rejected my 10 Lira bill, and shared a portion of the train ride with me.  Before she had to get off, to transfer to another line, we exchanged e-mails and Facebook information.  Hopefully we can meet up again and do some of the touristy exploring together!

A few minutes later the train came to my stop as well, and with simple map in hand I began the search for the flat I would be staying in.  About twenty minutes and 5 stops for directions later and I was sitting cozily in the living room of Erdi’s flat.  Erdi is a young Kurdish man who has lived in Istanbul for five years, slowly studying economics and making the rent by subletting rooms to travelers and doing free-lance computer repair.

We spent the rest of the evening chatting over tea.  We ordered in for dinner, and upon Erdi’s recommendations I had some spicy kebab, something that sounded like “ichili kutte”- a fried meatball squirted with lemon juice, and a salty yogurt drink, typical from this area.  It was all delicious, and I had it all for 16 Turkish Lira.

Spicy Kebab, Fried Meatball, and a Salty Yogurt Drink. All delicious!

After the food, the warmth, and the friendship I was quite content and relaxed.  My exhaustion quickly caught up with me, and shortly afterward I excused myself to retire for the night.  After all, tomorrow I had a busy day of learning about my new neighborhood!

So, to catchup with my budget:

November 14th

I did not spend any money as most of that day was spent on the plane.

November 15th

- one postcard for my dad, from the Munich Airport- .80 Euro, or $1.08

- Visa from the Turkish Airport- $20.00

- Metro token- 2 TL, or $1.11

- Dinner- 16 TL, or $8.88

- TOTAL: $31.07, well under budget for the day.  I’m off to a good start!

We’ll see how it goes tomorrow, when I start my first full day in Turkey.

Good night for now!

~Aeri

gotta love complimentary wi-fi

14 Nov 2011 Leave a Comment

by Aeri Rose in Budgets, Transportation, Trips

There is nothing more relaxing than the time spent waiting at the gate before boarding.  You are exactly where you are supposed to be, and cannot be expected to be anywhere else.  Shortly you will board a plane to an exciting place.  Baring the overly-chatty, -smelly, or -rotund seat mate; the flight itself can be equally relaxing.

This is the time to catch up on the silly fantasy novel you’ve been meaning to read, to listen fondly to the iPod travel mix your cousin gave you, or catch up on some writing.  And when you’re lucky enough to be sitting at a gate in an  airport with complimentary wi-fi; the possibilities are endless.  For example, I am sitting at gate C7 in Dulles International Airport, about to embark on my five week adventure in Turkey, France, and Morocco- and blogging about it live!

Getting to this point was easy enough.  After checking my backpack- 39.5 lbs (17.9 kilos) to start- and collecting my boarding pass, I had an uneventful trip through security.  Now that I’m on the cusp of my adventure, I’d like to review my budget one last time.

So, I started with a journey from November 14 to December 20- 37 days.  That allows me a budget of $3,700.00 ($100 a day).  After spending a quick $999.09 on flights, I was left with $2700.91.

Before leaving, I did a little research on lodging, and decided to start the trip with a stay at an AirBnB room.  So $227 later, and I rented myself a private room in a flat in Fatih, Istanbul for the first two weeks.  That worked out to be just over $15 a night for a private room with access to a bathroom and full kitchen (as in stove AND fridge).  In Paris I will be staying with friends of mine, for $0 a night.  Similarly, in Casablanca I have connected with some hosts in the CouchSurfing community, and don’t anticipate budgeting for lodging there either.  I’ll be returning to Istanbul for a few days at the end of the trip, and a good friend will be meeting up with me.  I’ll wait to book any rooms for that portion of the trip until we have had a chance to talk, and decide together where to stay.

So, out the door I have a budget of $2,473.91 remaining.  That works out to be about $66.86 a day.  Tight, but I think manageable.

Well, that’s all for now! I think I’ll sign off, find a water fountain to fill my reusable water bottle, and snack on my apple.

Cheers!

~Aeri

packing with poise

10 Nov 2011 3 Comments

by Aeri Rose in Packing

No one knows the importance of traveling light better than a faerie.  Have you ever gone on a hiking trip with an overladen, top-heavy backpack?  Every step is a risk of toppling forward.  The darned things are so hard to get on and off that you just want to leave it on when you take a water break. Now imagine dealing with that In The Air. No fun, right? No faerie wants to face-plant underneath an overly  stuffed pack, so they learned quickly how to pack lightly but thoroughly.  Today we will go over some of their basic, but most valuable, tips.

I personally like to do my packing in stages. I have it down to a six step process now.

Step 1: Packing Preparation 

Before you pull a single sock out of your drawer, there are a few things to consider.  Ask your-self some questions.

- How long will you be gone? And more importantly, will there be a washing machine?

If you will be going on a short trip, or will have access to a washing machine- pack light! Wash and re-wear my friend!

- How much moving around will you be doing once you leave your house?  

Lugging around suitcases, even ones with those silly little wheels on the bottom, can be aggravating.  Watching over your possessions in public places can stress you out, and hauling weighty suitcases around will tire you out quick.  However, if your suitcase is staying put once you get to your new room, maybe you can consider packing more luxuries or a heavier load.

- What kind of weight restrictions are imposed by your means of transportation?

Don’t pay more to move your stuff around than you pay to move yourself around.  Be aware of overweight or extra baggage fees.

- What suitcases will you be using?

Know before you pack, what you’ll be putting your stuff in.  Keep the size of the luggage in mind when choosing what to bring.  Don’t leave home with an overstuffed bag, because lets be honest- you know you’ll be buying stuff along the way!

- What is the purpose of this trip?

Packing for a weekend in the city or an 1,800 mile hike across a mountaintop will require drastically different things.  These are extremes, but think about the events you’ll need to plan for when packing.

- Lastly, make a list of things you want to pack.  My Turkey list looks like this:

In my Purse (Yeah, its kind of a big purse):

  • Passport/Wallet/Print-outs of all ticket information
  • Book to read
  • Notebook/Pen
  • Netbook/Charger
  • Outlet Adapters
  • Camera/Charger
  • Ipod/Cable
  • Snacks (Yes, snacks.  Waits at the airport can be long and boring, and the temptation to buy food there is high.  Save yourself some money and bring some healthy snacks along.  Wait to spend your money on good food once you arrive at your destination!)
  • Water Bottle (Bringing an empty reusable water bottle is OK with security, and you can fill it at a water fountain once at your gate.  Bottled water adds up quick on a trip, save some cash and the environment by coming prepared.)

In my Backpack:

  • Clothes (I usually bring about a week’s worth of shirts, socks, and underthings, and a couple pairs of pants. I’ll talk more about choosing what to pack down below.)
  • Belt
  • Chucks (Or some easy to pack extra pair of walking shoes.)
  • Toiletries
  • Towel (Don’t ever travel without one!)
  • Small Presents (For friends, couch surfing hosts, or friendly locals you meet along the way. Nothing too bulky or expensive, just something to make a nice gesture with.)
  • Hat/Scarf/Gloves (Depending on the season, these can come in handy.)

Step 2: Lay out everything you think you might want to bring

And I mean everything! Laying out everything you want to bring gives you a starting point for the packing process.  Right now just throw it all on your bed (or some big flat space).  When you’re done, take a look at the size of the heap.  How are you doing? How much of that do you think you need? How much can you fit in your bag? This is what my Step 2 looked like today while packing for Turkey.

Lay out everything you could possibly want to bring.

Step 3: Narrow your choices down

This is the tough part- deciding what really should go with you.
Toiletries are pretty easy to manage. You know your routine, and what you need on a regular basis.  Picking up a set of little bottles isn’t a bad idea either.  Put your shampoos and lotions in these.  Not only does it make airport security happier, it is less weight for you to lug around.  And ladies- you won’t die if you have to go a day or two without hairspray, a blow dryer, or a curling iron. If you’re lucky, they’ll probably even have these things at the lodging you’ve chosen.

Now, clothes are a little harder.  I like to pack for all weather conditions, since its hard to judge where your trip might take you.  But it is important to be cute too! So when I pack I think layers, colors, and moods.

  • Layers: Pack things that can be worn alone when it is warm out, together for added warmth.  Think light t-shirts underneath long sleeved-shirts underneath sweaters; or tights underneath knee-high socks underneath jeans.  I could recommend bringing wool instead of cotton for it’s higher performance in heat, wet, and cold; but I prefer to be realistic- pack what you own. Try not to spend too much money on new stuff before the trip, that’s less you have available to spend once you’re there!
  • Colors: I try to follow a similar color scheme when I pack.  It makes playing mix-and-match, and pairing outfits together, easier during the trip if I’ve already thought about how well the clothes I’ve brought go together. For this trip my colors seem to be gravitating towards blacks, creams, olives, and plums/purples.
  • Moods: Like colors, moods come into play when mixing and matching.  Shorts are casual, until dressed up with a black top and tights. Suddenly its a funky outfit for a night out.  Pack clothes that can change their mood depending on what they are paired with.
For this five week trip I am bringing only one small hiking backpack.  I’d like to have about a week/week and a half’s worth of clothes. My list looks like this:
  • 7 pairs of socks and underthings
  • 1 pair of jeans
  • 2 pairs of leggings
  • 1 pair of tights
  • 1 pair of shorts
  • 6 tank tops
  • 2 t-shirts
  • 4 long sleeved shirts
  • 4 sweaters
  • Waterproof coat
  • Hat/Scarf/Gloves
  • Boots (They are leather, but they’ve been sprayed with waterproofing spray.)
  • Chucks (I did only one trip with only one pair of shoes.  I don’t care how comfortable they are, your feet will be sick of those shoes by the end.  Bring a second smaller pair if you can.)
  • PJ’s
What I have picked out will last me more than a week, probably more like two, but it gives me a great diversity of options.  I can wear the tank tops with shorts if it is warm, or with jeans to go to a club.  The shirts will layer well, and the boots go with everything I’ve packed.  The chucks will be cute with leggings and some of the longer tank-tops worn like tunics.  And most importantly, it all fits in my bag with room to spare.  This is what my streamlined packing choices look like:

Try to pack clothes that work together based on layers, colors, and moods.

Step 3: Trial Pack

When you think you’ve whittled down your starting pile to a more manageable load, give it a test run.  You don’t need to be particularly need or orderly this first time packing.  You’re just testing the “stuff to space” ratio.  Lucky for me, all my choices fit into my backpack the first time around.  Remember, you can leave out one outfit as your travel outfit.  I always travel in my biggest shoes (the boots) and bulkiest sweater, but my comfiest pants.  I usually wear warm thick socks too, those planes can get cold!

Step 4: Final Cut

Unload your bag.  If you weren’t able to fit all your choices the first time around, now is when you do the final trimming.  Streamline your travel wardrobe one more time.

Another tip when choosing what to pack: consider the longevity and quality of your clothes.  I always take traveling as a chance to weed out the more worn out stuff in my closet.  I bring towels, socks, underthings, and even shirts and toiletries that only have a little life left in them.  Then when I’m doing my final packing job, ready to head home at the end of the trip, I abandon these things.  It makes a little more room for all the souvenirs I’ve probably bought.

Step 5: Final Pack

Last step- pack for real! Reload your bags, considering convenience and easy access of frequently used items. Leave your computer and toiletries on top, especially if you aren’t checking your bag.  These things need to be pulled out for security and you don’t want to root through your underwear to get to them! Even if you are checking your bags, you will be happy when getting to your toothbrush at the end of a long day isn’t a battle with your bag.  If you’ve got an outside pocket, put that spare pair of shoes in there so they don’t get your clothes dirty.  And try to keep the weight evenly distributed throughout the bag so its not top heavy or leaning to one side.

And that’s that.  These are what my final packs look like, ready and waiting for my Turkey adventure. Do they look as excited as I am?

One purse, one pack, and a "day of flight" outfit.

Previous Older Entries